Finding Right Wave Timing

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The Science of Surfing’s Biggest Thrills

Summary

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75% Informative

John Warwick is a research geologist at the US Geological Survey .

He says surfers need to be knowledgeable about a number of sciences, oceanography, meteorology, geology and geology, because they all combine to make up where the right waves are at the right time.

Warwick: Finding good waves is all about understanding the wave conditions at anyone time, but also the physical setting of the beaches and the coasts.

The sea floor is really important for a number of things, habitats and resources and, and of course in surfing for how the waves will transform to the coast.

We've done a lot of mapping of the continental shelf to try to understand its shape and its morphology.

And that type of data we've collected up and down the coast can be useful for understanding waves and other marine resources.

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Neutral language

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informal

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English

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not offensive